June 13, 2009

Edible Tuscany- REAL BREAD

another beautiful day in Tuscany

The most fabulous part about living in Tuscany for so long, is that when plans go wrong, you can always come up with a great back-up plan as there is so much to do everywhere. Today we were supposed to meet a friend at a flea market, which he had read about. Since it was in a village near the forno, I could already taste the wonderful schiacciata, a Tuscan flatbread, brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with salt.

About 20 years ago I was lucky enough to go on one of Faith Willingers Day Trips to Capezzana Winery which included going to Roberto Catinari's chocolate shop and also to the Forno Agnese.
I have been back to both, but not to the Forno Agnese in a long time. Today was the day!

I am the family GPS and navigated off the main road, the Pistoiese, to Tavola and across the bridge and under the first archway on the left. There is a sign on the gate. Ring for bread. We were greeted by the family dog, grandma, mom and son. When the dog was back in the house we were allowed into the gated yard. The door was open to the Forno- so I asked permission and peeked in. Nothing had changed. Agnese died at 101. Bread is life!

The oven

Inside is very simple, one oven, one mixer, one table and lots and lots of bags of flour!

The Bread

Since I had been there before, I already new a lot, but was introduced to Eduardo, the 4th generation now. His prefered after school snack is the schiacciata filled with Nutella! I adore chocolate and salt so was willing to try. My husband loves eating a block of bittersweet chocolate and last time I was in Seattle Theo's chocolate also does a chocolate with tiny bits of salted bread crumbs in it which is also nice.

Trust an expert

After baking the bread, beans are put in to slowly cook in the heat of the ovens.

I am so glad we got a chance to go back and enjoy more of this incredible bread. Often people come to Italy to see the museums, but the true treasures of Italy are the artisans.

And our daily bread.

If you get a chance to explore this area, there are so many treasures to discover. There are villas to visit which are worth the trip and other incredible dining experiences too.

Another favorite in the area is Da Delfina in Artimino.


  1. I love detours and "alternate oplans." SOmetimes they are magic. I do make Tuscan bread (courtesy of MaryAnn Esposito) and love it. But can only dream of the brick oven for baking.

  2. Anonymous8:38 PM

    Sono una apassionata della Toscana, quanto mi manca andare al mercato o un semplice piatto di pasta fatto bene...
    Spero di poter fare un tour "Mondays in the market" a dicembre!
    Auguri per il blog!!


  3. I could almost smell the schiacciata too! There is nothing like fresh bread!

  4. Oh my. This is the first time I have ever visited your blog, and I LOVE it!

  5. I am SO envious!!!

  6. Wow you are so lucky to be able to just drive to a place as wonderful as this. I so miss Italy and dream of the day I'll be back to visit places like this.

  7. Nadege9:32 PM

    Life wouldn't be the same without Nutella.

  8. this sounds so traditional to me:) You ahve a lovely blog:) Will keep visiting often!

    Happy Cooking:)

  9. Looks so nice.I'm envying you...